Topical Vitamin C Value

We know that Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) is a strong antioxidant, especially in regard to protecting our skin from sun damage. But, what else does it do? It strengthens the skin barrier and thickens the dermis. It can encourage wound healing and reduce inflammation. In high concentrations (>10%), it can reduce the appearance of skin discoloration. Most importantly, Vitamin C helps to form and maintain collagen, which plumps the skin and provides radiance and smoothness.

How does Vitamin C help form collagen? The role of Vitamin C in the production of collagen is to interact with amino acids within collagen cells. It adds hydrogen and oxygen to those amino acids, so that they may do their part in collagen production. If you don’t get the proper amount of Vitamin C, collagen production will slow. A decline in collagen production will not only make skin more susceptible to wrinkles, but it might also make it more susceptible to bruising.

It is important to note that only topical Vitamin C that is stable, active and able to be absorbed, and remain stable throughout the life of the product once it is opened, is effective. All vitamins are subject to oxidation when used topically, meaning that the vitamins lose their potency when exposed to the air. Some skin care companies offer stabilized Vitamin C products, which oxidize less rapidly. However, these products are usually more expensive (especially the ones concentrated enough to be effective).

The Benefits of Topical Vitamin C:

• Rapidly absorbed so it won’t rub or wash off
• Greater penetration to the epidermis and dermis = greater benefit
• Neutralizes free radical damage caused by UV light, smoke, and air pollution
• Enhances the protective barrier function of the skin
• Helps moisturize and increase skin hydration
• Stimulates collagen production
• Restores elasticity
• Prevents premature skin aging
• Protects against damaging UVA and UVB rays
• Reverses the appearance of photoaging
• Decreases fine lines and wrinkles
• Lightens and brightens the skin for more even tone
• Fades brown spots
• Helps reduce oiliness and restore sebum balance
• Helps to normalize problem skin (pimples, blackheads, and other problems associated with oily skin)
• Anti-inflammatory

A facial serum with Vitamin C provides the most benefit in the vitamin's topical application.

Professional Product Spotlight:

C-Quench^® Antioxidant Serum

This exceptional antioxidant serum combines lilac leaf stem cell extract, resveratrol, glutathione, L-ascorbic acid and ergothioneine. Its powerful blend of ingredients effectively prevents and corrects cellular oxidation. It also enlists a host of powerful anti-inflammatory agents to soothe the skin while increasing hydration and adding support to the extracellular matrix. C-Quench® Antioxidant Serum promotes healthy skin function for all skin types.

Key Ingredients:
L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Hyaluronic Acid
Ergothioneine Orange Oil, Black Current Seed Oil and Resveratrol
Lilac Leaf Stem Cell Extract
Glutathione

Pick up your C-Quench Antioxidant Serum today, only at Fresh Faced Skin Care.

You Don’t Know Retinol!

There is an awful lot of talk these days about retinol and retinoids, Retin A® and Retinyl Palmitate. What is the difference in these ingredients and how exactly do they help your skin?

Both retinols and retinoids are the precursors to Vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin.  Retinoids, such as retinoic acid (tretinoin), are the most active form of Vitamin A and are prescription ingredients found in the topical medications Retin A and Renova®. Isotretinoin (Accutane) is an oral retinoid used mainly to treat cystic acne by reducing inflammation and oil secretion. Topical retinoids are thought to stimulate cell growth and differentiation, promote drainage of existing acne, and prevent the development of new acne lesions in the skin. Tretinoin has been approved for use in the treatment of acne and for improving photodamaged skin.  Specifically, tretinoin has been shown to reduce wrinkles and create a smooth skin texture by increasing dermal collagen production and decreasing melanin (skin pigment).

Retinols, on the other hand, are less irritating than retinoids and are found in a wide variety of over the counter products. Once retinols penetrate the skin, they are ultimately converted to retinoic acid and become active.  Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A palmitate) is known to normalize skin and readily penetrates into the epidermis and dermis. Products containing retinyl palmitate are substantially more stable than those containing retinol.

 Like retinol, retinyl palmitate must be converted by enzymes in the skin in order to become active. However, the metabolic pathway to convert retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid is longer. Because the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid is low and even lower for retinyl palmitate, a larger amount of these ingredients are needed in order for the cells to increase retinoic acid levels and produce effective results. Okay, so all we have to do is look for skin care products with high levels of retinol, right? Not necessarily! The following factors must be considered when selecting/using a retinol product:

1.    Skin care products with high concentrations of retinol may cause skin irritation, especially individuals with sensitive skin. If you can’t use the product due to irritation, it can’t possibly give you any benefits!

2.    Conversion rates of retinol and retinyl palmitate differ among individuals. The same product having the same concentration may benefit some people, but deliver little to no results in others.

3.    Retinol can degrade from oxidation if it is not formulated, stored, or used properly.

Considering all of this information, what is the best Vitamin A form for your skin? Well, the best way to get all of the skin rejuvenation benefits of retinoic acid is to actually use retinoic acid at an optimal concentration. However, this may not be a viable option for two reasons: 1. Retinoic acid requires a prescription and is relatively expensive. 2. Tretinoin tends to cause skin irritation, especially in sensitive individuals or if used incorrectly. However, well formulated products containing retinol and/or retinyl palmitate provide an additional alternative that may be cheaper and, at least for some people, less irritating.

Ideally, it is important to find a stable, sufficiently concentrated formulation that does not irritate your skin. Consult your skin care professional as to which retinol product will work best for you.