Does Sunscreen Truly Matter?

Is it really necessary to wear sunscreen every day? The answer is YES. We need to use sunscreen every day, rain or shine (and winter or summer), in order to protect our skin cells from ultraviolet (UV) exposure. UV rays can damage the skin and cause damage to your cell’s DNA, causing mutations to occur. These mutations can lead to cancer.

 We are exposed to two types of ultraviolet light on a daily basis: UVA and UVB. UVA has a longer wavelength and less energy that UVB. However, these rays exist during the day and night and play a significant role in aging. UVA rays have been associated with causing fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation.  These rays can pass through glass (think your car window) and may be present in fluorescent lights (what’s that above your cubicle?). Prolonged exposure to UVA will damage your skin and will even show up years after the exposure takes place. UVB are the “burning” rays which are present during the day (even on cloudy days!).

So, what is the best sunscreen for protection? To answer this question, you need to be aware of the active ingredients in your sunscreen. For example, a sunscreen with both UVA/UVB protection which also includes antioxidants can help prevent future damage as well as assist the skin in repairing itself.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is the multiple of time it takes for your skin to burn. For example, if it normally takes you 10 minutes to burn, and you use an SPF 15, you should not burn for 150 minutes (10 x 15). Bear in mind that SPF only applies to UVB rays and not UVA rays. FDA has specific labeling requirements for UVA protection.

Some of the most common chemicals used in sunscreens are oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone. These chemicals work by absorbing UVB light. However, they can only absorb UVB light until they become saturated. Once they become saturated, they lose their ability to protect. This is why we have to reapply sunscreen often, especially after prolonged sun exposure or swimming. These chemicals are great for protection against UVB light, but cannot protect us from UVA light. Remember that UVA light penetrates deeper into the skin, affecting collagen, elastin, and DNA. So, what can protect us from UVA light?

Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide work as a sunscreen by reflecting the ultraviolet light, including UVA (think thick, white goop on a lifeguard’s nose). Micronized versions of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are now used and can even be found in some makeup formulations. These “physical” sunscreens are inorganic and generally do not produce sensitivity reactions, as a chemical sunscreen might.

Do you think it is more effective to use an SPF 50 sunscreen rather than an SPF 30 sunscreen? The answer is- it depends. Most sunscreens with an SPF of 30 absorb about 94% of UVB light. Increase that SPF to 50, and you increase the protection to 99%. That sounds good, right? By increasing the absorption power to SPF 50, you are also increasing the amount of potentially irritating chemical ingredients by 50%. For those with sensitive skin, this increase in irritants may be more of a risk than the extra SPF protection provided.

The bottom line is- sunscreen does matter. Whether you use absorbers or reflectors, UVB or UVA protection, you actually have to use them for any of them to work! It also doesn’t hurt to limit your sun exposure.

Say Yes to Chocolate

Is chocolate good for your skin? According to a German study, the topical application of chocolate produced the following benefits:

·         25% reduction in UV light induced skin reddening

·         30% reduction in scaliness

·         16% increase in density

·         13% increase in moistness

·         11% increase in thickness

THE TOP 5 REASONS TO MAKE CHOCOLATE

A PART OF YOUR SKIN CARE:

1.    Chocolate contains cocoa butter, which is has skin softening and smoothing properties.

2.    The fibrous coating of the cocoa itself breaks down free radicals. This helps to prevent wrinkles by protecting your skin’s collagen and elastin.

3.    Dark chocolate contains a minimum of 35% cocoa, making it a powerful antioxidant.

4.    The magnesium found in cocoa produces progesterone, a hormone that counteracts stress-related breakouts.

5.    Chocolate also contains caffeine which revitalizes and tones the skin.

Fresh Faced Skin Care is featuring dark chocolate for the month of February. Call and ask for the Sweet Passion Facial. This powerful anti-aging facial includes passion fruit enzyme for exfoliation, followed by a dark chocolate mint mask.

For a limited time only: February 1- February 29, 2012. Call 302-689-3223.

www.freshfacedskincare.com

You Don’t Know Retinol!

There is an awful lot of talk these days about retinol and retinoids, Retin A® and Retinyl Palmitate. What is the difference in these ingredients and how exactly do they help your skin?

Both retinols and retinoids are the precursors to Vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin.  Retinoids, such as retinoic acid (tretinoin), are the most active form of Vitamin A and are prescription ingredients found in the topical medications Retin A and Renova®. Isotretinoin (Accutane) is an oral retinoid used mainly to treat cystic acne by reducing inflammation and oil secretion. Topical retinoids are thought to stimulate cell growth and differentiation, promote drainage of existing acne, and prevent the development of new acne lesions in the skin. Tretinoin has been approved for use in the treatment of acne and for improving photodamaged skin.  Specifically, tretinoin has been shown to reduce wrinkles and create a smooth skin texture by increasing dermal collagen production and decreasing melanin (skin pigment).

Retinols, on the other hand, are less irritating than retinoids and are found in a wide variety of over the counter products. Once retinols penetrate the skin, they are ultimately converted to retinoic acid and become active.  Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A palmitate) is known to normalize skin and readily penetrates into the epidermis and dermis. Products containing retinyl palmitate are substantially more stable than those containing retinol.

 Like retinol, retinyl palmitate must be converted by enzymes in the skin in order to become active. However, the metabolic pathway to convert retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid is longer. Because the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid is low and even lower for retinyl palmitate, a larger amount of these ingredients are needed in order for the cells to increase retinoic acid levels and produce effective results. Okay, so all we have to do is look for skin care products with high levels of retinol, right? Not necessarily! The following factors must be considered when selecting/using a retinol product:

1.    Skin care products with high concentrations of retinol may cause skin irritation, especially individuals with sensitive skin. If you can’t use the product due to irritation, it can’t possibly give you any benefits!

2.    Conversion rates of retinol and retinyl palmitate differ among individuals. The same product having the same concentration may benefit some people, but deliver little to no results in others.

3.    Retinol can degrade from oxidation if it is not formulated, stored, or used properly.

Considering all of this information, what is the best Vitamin A form for your skin? Well, the best way to get all of the skin rejuvenation benefits of retinoic acid is to actually use retinoic acid at an optimal concentration. However, this may not be a viable option for two reasons: 1. Retinoic acid requires a prescription and is relatively expensive. 2. Tretinoin tends to cause skin irritation, especially in sensitive individuals or if used incorrectly. However, well formulated products containing retinol and/or retinyl palmitate provide an additional alternative that may be cheaper and, at least for some people, less irritating.

Ideally, it is important to find a stable, sufficiently concentrated formulation that does not irritate your skin. Consult your skin care professional as to which retinol product will work best for you.