The Reality of Chirality

All living things contain chiral molecules. The concept of chirality is this: molecules existing in two forms that are mirror images of each other. They are related but are not superimposable, just as your hands are. Chiral molecules are often described as being left-handed or right-handed. Chirality is very important in skin care when it comes to ingredient efficacy. Chirally correct ingredients are easily recognized by your body. Because of this, your cells can better absorb and utilize these ingredients.

Here are some examples:

Vitamin C:  Exists as L-ascorbic acid (L for levo meaning left) and D-ascorbic acid (D for dextro meaning right). D-ascorbic acid promotes drying, itching and burning. In fact, the D form of Vitamin C is used in turpentine and for recycling tires.

Vitamin E: D-alpha-tocopherol is the chirally correct form of Vitamin E. DL-alpha-tocopherol is a mixture of both right- and left-handed molecules. Some skin care companies use the DL form because it is cheaper and easier to produce. However, this form of Vitamin E is known to cause irritation. This is because the L form is not utilized by the body correctly and therefore does not produce the soothing property of the chirally correct D form.

So, what do these examples tell us? Basically, if an active ingredient is chirally correct, it will do the job it is intended to do. If the ingredient is not chirally correct, it won't work or may even do actual harm. Most importantly, ingredients that are not chirally correct are one of the main reasons why certain skin care products do not deliver on the results that they claim. For best results, use professional skin care products manufactured with chirally correct ingredients.