Should I be using a Serum?

This is a commonly asked question in my skin care clinic. The answer is yes. I routinely tell my clients if you only had money to spend on one product, spend it on a serum.

The reason is simple: serums create the most change in the skin. This is because serums contain high concentrations of active ingredients. These active ingredients are often formulated in a low molecular weight or lightweight base. This allows the product to absorb readily into the skin and penetrate deeper than a heavier weight formulation, such as a moisturizer.

There are many different types of serums offered by skin care manufacturers. They are created to prevent the skin from damage, protect the skin from damage, and/or correct damage.

“What is the best serum?”

The answer depends on what concerns you have for your skin. Serums are made with specific ingredients to address specific concerns. For example, if your concern is acne, you may opt for a serum with an exfoliating active ingredient such as salicylic acid to encourage quicker cell turnover. However, if your concern is hyperpigmentation, you would want a serum with known brightening properties, such as licorice root extract.

“How do I use a serum?”

No matter what serum you buy, you must always use it directly on clean skin (immediately following cleansing). This allows the product to absorb into the skin. Otherwise, it will sit on top of the skin and won’t be effective. How often you use the serum depends on the manufacturer’s instructions for use. Applications may be once or twice a day.

Top 5 Skin Care Products of 2013

‘Tis the season of countdown lists. 

Here is Fresh Faced Skin Care’s Top selling Skin Care Products for 2013:

#5 Clearskin by PCA SKIN: This antibacterial hydrator is scientifically formulated with retinol, marigold, lemongrass and cucumber to help soothe irritation, fight bacteria and inhibit breakouts. It promotes a healthy, clear complexion in oily and blemish-prone skin.

#4 Glycolic and Retinol Pads by Skin Script: These pads break up surface oil to refine pores and reveal fresh, healthy skin. Kojic and arbutin lighten sun spots and scars left from blemishes.

#3 Blemish Control Cleanser by Skin Script: This raspberry-based acne control cleanser will increase cellular turnover bringing oil and debris to the surface of the skin; salicylic then dries the uplifted oil. Tea tree calms and soothes the skin.

#2 Acne Gel by PCA SKIN: A gentle 2% salicylic acid acne treatment product that clears existing acne blemishes and prevents the occurrence of future breakouts.

#1 Perfecting Protection SPF30 by PCA SKIN: This revolutionary broad-spectrum UVA/UVB product works to reduce existing skin discoloration while preventing future hyperpigmentation. In addition, potent antioxidants, caffeine and milk thistle work to fight damaging environmental free radicals, inflammation and the formation of sunburn cells. Perfecting protection SPF30 is suitable for all skin types.

Fresh Faced Skin Care would like to thank all of our loyal clients. Your business is very much appreciated. Enjoy a safe and healthy holiday season.

Call 302-689-3223 to order or go online at www.freshfacedskincare.com

5 Benefits of Exfoliation

Exfoliation is a process that removes dead skin cells from the upper layer of the skin, revealing the healthy skin underneath. Regular exfoliation can help keep skin looking fresh, removing any dry patches or flakiness. In addition to cleansing your skin, exfoliating on a regular basis (once or twice a week at home and once or twice a month professionally) can improve the results of your skin care routine and help rejuvenate your skin. 

Whether you have dry, normal, oily or sensitive skin, exfoliation can bring new life to your complexion. The removal of dead skin cells helps keep pores from becoming clogged and leaves skin with a refreshed and clean feeling. Why would you want clean and clear pores? Clogged pores can result in blackheads and acne. Likewise, when pores are clogged, they appear larger. Although you cannot reduce the actual size of your pores, you can help to minimize their appearance by keeping them clog-free.

In addition to the immediate visual benefits of exfoliation, the removal of dead skin cells speeds up the skin renewal process, allowing smoother, healthier skin cells to take their place. Not only will this help with fine lines and wrinkles, but it will help to lessen discoloration as well.

There are two basic types of exfoliants: physical exfoliants and chemical exfoliants. Physical exfoliants work to remove dead skin cells by friction. Examples of physical exfoliants include scrubs, microdermabrasion, and dermaplaning. Chemical exfoliants do the work for you by essentially dissolving the "glue" that is binding the dead cells to your skin. Enzymes, chemical peels, and acids are examples of chemical exfoliants. A combination of both physical and chemical exfoliation is an ideal way to address damage in the skin from the top down, as well as from the bottom up.

Top 5 Benefits of Exfoliation

1. Improves the results of your skin care products

2. Keeps your pores from clogging, keeping acne under control

3. Speeds up the skin renewal process, allowing smoother, healthier skin cells to take their place

4. Helps to lessen skin discoloration (uneven skin tone)

5. Leads to visibly brighter skin and softens fine lines and wrinkles

A is for Acne

Acne is a common, yet often misunderstood, skin condition. Did you know that Dermatologists classify acne into four grades? The classification system is based on a simple visual inspection of the skin. Knowing the grade of your acne is an important step in treating acne. All acne grades require different treatment methods. The four grades of Acne are described below:

Grade I

Grade I is the mildest form of acne. There may be a few small whiteheads, blackheads and papules (red pimples) in small number. There is no inflammation in Grade I acne.

Grade II

Grade II is considered moderate acne. This stage consists of blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules (inflamed papule with white or yellow center containing pus), and redness. They will appear with greater frequency, and general breakout activity will be more obvious. Slight inflammation of the skin is now apparent.

Grade III

This type of acne is considered severe. The main difference between Grade II and Grade III acne is the amount of inflammation present. The skin is now obviously reddened and inflamed. This is the most common grade of acne and has a higher risk of scarring and deep pitting.

Grade IV

The most severe form of acne, Grade IV is often referred to as cystic acne. The skin will display numerous papules, pustules, and nodules, in addition to cysts (a closed sac of fluid/infection under the skin. They are tender, painful and cannot be extracted). There is a pronounced amount of inflammation and breakouts are severe. Cystic acne is very painful.

Acne of this severity usually extends beyond the face, and may affect the entire back, chest, shoulders, and upper arms. The infection is deep and widespread. Nearly all cystic acne sufferers develop scarring.

Summer Skin Care Tips

Summer is upon us. What skin care concerns do you have during the summer months? Sunburn? Dry skin? Excess oil? Here are a few skin care tips for keeping your skin beautiful all summer long.

Sunburn: Avoid the sun until the skin has healed completely. Sunburned skin is more susceptible to subsequent burns. Soaking in a bath of cool or lukewarm water laced with a handful of baking soda will ease the burn. Afterward, gently pat on a topical over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream to help reduce swelling.

Dry skin: After swimming, rinse with fresh water to remove any salt or chlorine buildup, which can further dry out and irritate skin. Keep subsequent baths and showers short (no longer than 5 minutes) and use a mild cleanser and warm water. Gently use a loofah, washcloth, or exfoliating scrub to slough off dead cells. After bathing, towel-dry and moisturize immediately.

Oily skin: Avoid using bar soap to cleanse your face. The binders that hold a bar of soap together are very alkaline (high pH), which will strip all the water and natural oils out of the skin, causing the surface of the skin to dehydrate. Your skin will then be producing more oil to compensate for the lack of water. Using soap can also cause more break outs as the dehydrated cells being caused from the drying soap can cause a layer of dry skin cell buildup which can trap oil and keep them clogged in the pores. Use a gel-based cleanser instead.

Breakouts on your back, shoulders and chest:  Wash with a body cleanser that contains benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, ingredients that unblock pores and dry up excess oil. Also look for oil-free products that are labeled noncomedogenic, which means they won't clog pores.

Reducing Skin Pore Size

Do you suffer from large pores? Why do some people have large pores, while others have small pores? Genetics plays a big role in pore size. Also, certain areas of the body, such as the nose and forehead generally tend of have bigger pores both in men and women secreting more sebum (oil). At times, these openings become jammed with dirt and dead skin cells leading to the formation of blackheads and whiteheads; therefore making these openings appear even larger.

Unfortunately, there is no magic wand which can shrink these pores to the preferred size. However, there are a number of products and treatments available which can help you accomplish your goal of smaller looking pores.

• Schedule professional skin care treatments every 4-6 weeks: These treatments go beyond simple cleansing to remove oil and debris caught in the pores.
• Wash your face every night using an appropriate cleanser for your skin type.
• Apply a water-based moisturizer during the day and evening. The moisturizer will help balance the oil in the skin. 

Look for skin care products containing the following ingredients:

Retinol: A derivative of vitamin A to help reduce oil production in the glands and encourage skin exfoliation.

Salicylic Acid: Penetrates the follicle, reducing the number of pore blockages and breakouts in the skin.

Glycolic Acid: An Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) for skin exfoliation.

As always, consult your skin care professional for the best product recommendations.

Glycolic Acid Does What?!

What is it?

Glycolic acid is a natural fruit acid or alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is water soluble, making it versatile for dermatologic and cosmetic formulations. Because it is the shortest-chain AHA molecule, glycolic acid has been shown to be effective in penetrating dermal layers.

How does it work?

With time and sun exposure, there is a gradual decrease in the rate at which old cells leave the surface of the skin and are replaced by newer cells. This results in a surface layer of dead skin cells that are responsible for the appearance of aged skin.

Glycolic Acid works by penetrating the skin and breaking up the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface of the skin. It exfoliates and revitalizes skin by allowing fresh, new skin cells to come to the surface and, over time, helps spur the growth of new skin and the formulation of collagen. The cumulative effects of exfoliation, along with the moisturizing and penetrating properties of glycolic acid, produce changes in skin surface texture and tone, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.

Products containing glycolic acid include but are not limited to peels, facial washes, and moisturizers. Those seeking a more complete exfoliation may opt for a chemical peel. In general, a chemical peel involves a careful degreasing of the skin followed by an application of a powerful AHA, such as glycolic acid. Glycolic acid peels provide a gradual effect, so for best effect they need to be used over a period of a few weeks. Most skin types are able to tolerate these peels, which are available in various concentrations and in a wide array of applications. This allows you to find the right combination that best suits your individual skin. A typical course would be once a week for four to six weeks, with a few weeks off between courses.

Who should use Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid peel preparations are recommended for those whose skin is showing signs of aging. Fine lines, brown marks and dry spots can improve with regular applications or peels. Glycolic acid may also prove helpful for those prone to acne. Pregnant women and women who are nursing should avoid glycolic acid treatments.

Glycolic Acid Approved Uses

·         Acne Scarring

·         Facial Rejuvenation

·         Wrinkles

·         Hyperpigmentation

·         Melasma

·         Keratosis Pilaris (KP)

Professional Treatment Spotlight      

Fresh Faced Skin Care offers a series of 3 Glycolic Peels for $120 (regularly $150, save 20%). The peels are spaced 1 week apart and are about 15 minutes in duration. What a quick way to achieve smooth, rejuvenated skin! Call 302-689-3223 to schedule your series.

You Don’t Know Retinol!

There is an awful lot of talk these days about retinol and retinoids, Retin A® and Retinyl Palmitate. What is the difference in these ingredients and how exactly do they help your skin?

Both retinols and retinoids are the precursors to Vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin.  Retinoids, such as retinoic acid (tretinoin), are the most active form of Vitamin A and are prescription ingredients found in the topical medications Retin A and Renova®. Isotretinoin (Accutane) is an oral retinoid used mainly to treat cystic acne by reducing inflammation and oil secretion. Topical retinoids are thought to stimulate cell growth and differentiation, promote drainage of existing acne, and prevent the development of new acne lesions in the skin. Tretinoin has been approved for use in the treatment of acne and for improving photodamaged skin.  Specifically, tretinoin has been shown to reduce wrinkles and create a smooth skin texture by increasing dermal collagen production and decreasing melanin (skin pigment).

Retinols, on the other hand, are less irritating than retinoids and are found in a wide variety of over the counter products. Once retinols penetrate the skin, they are ultimately converted to retinoic acid and become active.  Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A palmitate) is known to normalize skin and readily penetrates into the epidermis and dermis. Products containing retinyl palmitate are substantially more stable than those containing retinol.

 Like retinol, retinyl palmitate must be converted by enzymes in the skin in order to become active. However, the metabolic pathway to convert retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid is longer. Because the conversion rate of retinol to retinoic acid is low and even lower for retinyl palmitate, a larger amount of these ingredients are needed in order for the cells to increase retinoic acid levels and produce effective results. Okay, so all we have to do is look for skin care products with high levels of retinol, right? Not necessarily! The following factors must be considered when selecting/using a retinol product:

1.    Skin care products with high concentrations of retinol may cause skin irritation, especially individuals with sensitive skin. If you can’t use the product due to irritation, it can’t possibly give you any benefits!

2.    Conversion rates of retinol and retinyl palmitate differ among individuals. The same product having the same concentration may benefit some people, but deliver little to no results in others.

3.    Retinol can degrade from oxidation if it is not formulated, stored, or used properly.

Considering all of this information, what is the best Vitamin A form for your skin? Well, the best way to get all of the skin rejuvenation benefits of retinoic acid is to actually use retinoic acid at an optimal concentration. However, this may not be a viable option for two reasons: 1. Retinoic acid requires a prescription and is relatively expensive. 2. Tretinoin tends to cause skin irritation, especially in sensitive individuals or if used incorrectly. However, well formulated products containing retinol and/or retinyl palmitate provide an additional alternative that may be cheaper and, at least for some people, less irritating.

Ideally, it is important to find a stable, sufficiently concentrated formulation that does not irritate your skin. Consult your skin care professional as to which retinol product will work best for you.